🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.